Part 5 – Nagaland

Nagaland is one of the few states in India where the biggest city is not the capital by default. Kohima is the capital city of Nagaland, it is located in the south-south central region of the state. Kohima also serves as the seat of the Legislative and Executive arms of the state government of Nagaland. The state doesn’t have a High court – but has a Kohima Bench in the Gauhati High Court.

The largest city of Nagaland is Dimapur, located about 75 Km from Kohima in the south west corner of the state bordering the neighboring state of Assam. Dimapur is the last accessible place by Air and Train in Nagaland. It is not unnatural as Nagaland is mostly covered in hills – about 90% of the landscape is covered in hills and hilly terrain.  

There are numerous trains on the route and 10 of them are daily trains. So we pushed our departure and decided to take a late night train that would a. Give us time to meet the players of Bengaluru FC in the day, and b. save us the hotel cost for the night. We’d booked a non-AC – sleeper coach – which cost us a little more than 200 rupees. The train was on time at Guwahati – but was filthy. Since mine was an upper berth and it was a late-night train I didn’t bother if the floor was clean or not – I hopped in and slept. I was told that the train was duly cleaned before it left the station.

The train pulled into Dimapur a little after 6 AM. I was exhausted and visibly dehydrated. Luckily the train station has enough food joints and to our pleasant surprise, there was a south Indian stand that served Dosas – which we had with much gratitude.

We had run into the tourist police – female – with whom we spoke about the ILP. The ILP – Inner Line Permit is what tourists and other non-native expats need to visit Nagaland. It is made essential because of the Armed Forces Special Powers Act that is in force in the area. The Act itself might be enforced in different regions up to different extents, but the ILP is required in only a few regions of India – and we didn’t have it. Our friend and host – who worked at a Kohima based TV station had said don’t worry about it, you’re only in Nagaland for 2 days. So we didn’t worry about it and fat mouthed the cops who detained us at the railway station for our troubles. Eventually we were let off on our own cognizance and on assurance that we would obtain the ILP from the commissioner’s office in Dimapur town. I would suggest – you get the ILP before hand and not try to pull stunts like these – its available online or in bigger cities like New Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Shillong.

Upon our “release” from the Railway station, we were hounded by cabbies – normal of any city in India. We found a cab that had 1 passenger ready to leave and with the 3 of us joining, we were ready to go – except – now we had to find a driver. The cabs may not always be privately owned – hence there are 3 moving parts – the passengers, the vehicle, and the driver. It was only on the road to Kohima did we find out that every part in the car is a moving part and it’s a miracle the chassis still holds, and engine still runs. The road is terrible, most of it is attributed to the new highway project, but the construction has been going on for years and likely to go on for years more. The distance of 75 Km took us nearly 6 hours. Bikers and landslides were a common site. Armored vehicles too. I couldn’t enjoy the mountainous scenery much – but the mountains and valleys can make an enjoyable sight.

The terrain gradient of the city of Kohima was constantly varying. The city itself wasn’t any cleaner than majority of India, but there was a lot of construction going on, houses, shopping complexes, bigger housing buildings – which suggested a sort of progress. There were also numerous schools and coaching centers – coaching centers that taught computers, and other professional certifications. Good signs! Since it was Christmas season, the whole city had Christmas decorations – not a lot of lights – as electricity is a commodity, but decorations, sky lights, and a lot of red and green everywhere. The homogeneity of the decorations made me as our friendly -stranger co passenger if it was handed by the government – which was the case. We took another cab from downtown Kohima towards our homestay in Kigwema.

We were welcomed warmly by the owner/keeper of the house. As a welcome drink, we were offered rice tea. Rice is a big part in Naga society, rice with meat, rice tea, and rice beer are every Naga’s daily routine. The homestay was a minimalist stay with minimal furniture – just beds and bedding, a small table with a bible and a calendar. There were candles and matches reminding us we were in rural India – albeit a tourist destination. The facility had community bath and toilet – toilet being the squat toilet.  We freshened ourselves up and waited for our friend to pick us up to go to the Hornbill festival.

 Kisama is an artificial village created just for the sake of the festival. It gets the name from the two nearby places of Ki-gwema and phe-Sama. The village is basically a big carnival area with parking, outdoor stage area, restaurants, a chapel, ATMs, medics, outdoor flea markets and everything else you find in a carnival. The main attraction however are the Morungs. A Morung literally means a habitat – a place of residence for a family or a group of families of a Naga Tribe.

Nagaland is home to 17 indigenous tribes, some are as big as 200 thousand people while some endangered ones at less than 20 thousand inhabitants. All these tribes are incredibly interesting with their own unique culture, language, scripts and art forms. The Hornbill Festival is an event that showcases and celebrates all the different cultures of these tribes. Each of the 17 tribes are depicted in their Morung, which they get to design and decorate themselves, cook food, set up stalls, brew beer and hold all of these for sales. Photos are encouraged and everyone is friendly.

The festival not only runs in Kisama but after nightfall, concerts from famous and upcoming native bands are held in the city concert ground in Kohima – which is just 15 Km from Kisama,

The people we met, our friends who we had seen in a different light and the new friends we made opened our minds to a whole new world. The conversations with the Nagas will be last of the 6 part travelogue of the incredible North East of India.

Also Read : Part 4 – Dawki and Jaintia


AV Fistula – The Surgery

Procedure we called it. Because it’s small, done under local anaesthesia and can be discharged from the hospital on the same day. Or the real reason – too scared to call it a surgery. Let’s not be scared and call it what it is – a minor surgery.

In the previous post, we learnt what is an AV Fistula and why we need it. Some of the readers of the blog have asked me to write about the surgery with special emphasis on my experience through the surgery. Sorry I don’t have comments on the blog to prove it, but you don’t have a choice – read on.

The buildup

Once the doc saw the numbers on my blood work, he declared let’s get the Fistula done soon. Get admitted on Monday. We’ll hydrate you for a day and see what to do next. We sensed the seriousness in the tone and didn’t ask many questions – or should
I say any questions.

The weekend was spent reading, and the few phone calls and mails to office to let them know I would be off work for the week. I had already read up on what and why Fistula, but there wasn’t much info on how the surgery would go and other patient experience about the whole process. As due, we reached the hospital in time thanks to Raaghu who picked us up late from home but dropped us in time at the hospital for the admission.

The first day

I was put in a room, robes on, hospital tag and IV line attached, and then there was nothing left to do but wait. The doctor came in, no small talk, took a look at my wrists and elbows and said let’s do it at the elbows. He was the nephrologist, he ordered the nurse to put me on fluids for the next 24 hours and monitor the vitals along with my urine output. I had an uneventful night – apart from the 92 year old grandpa who constantly craved for coffee deep into the night. He was in because he was just old and had taken a tumble that had send the sugar racing.

The Prep

An afternoon surgery was planned and since it was a local anaesthetic process, there was no requirement to have an empty abdomen. Hence I had my lunch at around 12:30 and waited for an hour for my ferry to the OT. (called OR is some parts of the world) As I was wheeled into the OT complex I could see a white board that had a list of all the surgeries for the day.  I was a little taken aback on how they could just list them so publicly. It had details of the patients, doctors on duty and even the procedure. Perhaps the OT complex is an small community in itself and everyone’s a professional. But they have guests – the patients, who may not always be so trustable to keep the contents of the board to themselves. 

The surgeon walked in as I was being prepped and wasn’t happy that the staff wasn’t ready for him. Sir, 2 minutes  pleaded who seemed to be the senior most nurse in the OT. They quickly adjusted my position on the operating table, held out my arm and dabbed it in betadine and other disinfectants. As one nurse held my arm up to drain out excess betadine, I could see a tattoo on her arm that red “Irresponsible” for a second I felt like the moment the cop saw Mr. Bean in the hospital – luckily Dr. Timepass was in town, and I could see the funny side soon. 

The surgeon stormed into OT 3 a few minute later and the nurses stiffened up again. He tore the scrub that was draped over my face to reveal the right side view – Don’t cover the face, the patient can get claustrophobic – actually I felt comfortable and warmer while fully covered. 

Just a small prick, after which you wont feel anything. The surgeon said to me

Prick, Sting and a Shock

I wasn’t sure if it was the surgeon or a nurse, but I felt the prick, a sharp sting and a sudden shock run down my arm – maybe that’s why they had padded my palm. Then everything went numb. I could hear the surgeon voice commands like we see in movies – scalpel, forceps, clamps, suction and a few others that I can’t recall. I couldn’t hear cutting or what was happening inside as my left arm was totally numb. 

About 10 or 20 minutes into the operation, the “Irresponsible” nurse came over to my right side and asked sir are you awake? Not so irresponsible I was thinking when we asked again, sir can you open your eyes? I opened my eyes and gave a thumbs up on my right hand. But as I kept my eyes open and turned my gaze upward, I could see my reflection in the clear glass and shiny rim of the huge operating lights. The incistion itself was hardly 2 inches long – so nothing much could be made out – but it felt funny that all their efforts to shield the patient from seeing the blood and gore was undone. 

Soon after I felt my arm tightening. Like when you feel the arm under pressure while they check your BP.  I hadn’t realised what had happened. The surgeon continued voice commands for more tools, and he said get the Heparin ready – the anti clot. The nurses were fiddling or getting it rather slowly and the surgeon made sure he didn’t waste time and gave them some constructive negative feedback – on which I laughed a little. He must’ve notices my shaking belly as he acknowledged the laugh and addressed me to say the main operation is done, we’ll just close it up.

Surgeon's tools

I could hear some hard pulling and yanking in between shouts of wet your hands, wet my hands, don’t touch him without wetting your hands. Is this how all operations go? maybe just mine because it was a minor surgery. He was the only doctor in the OT, the 4 others were either nurses or far too junior than the main Surgeon

Its done, it went well. He said more like a declaration and went out to meet my parents. The nurses got me out to a room just outside called the Recovery where I spent the next 2 hours before being moved to my room. 

My arm felt tight. The pressure at the elbow was still there and I couldn’t flex and stretch – I felt I wasn’t supposed to move my arm because of the stitches and tried to keep still. It wasn’t until late that evening – around 7:30 that my Nephrologist walked in and told me to feel the Fistula. I put a finger on it and could feel it – like a jet of water running in pipe. Just that it was my blood and was flowing in full force just a few millimeters below the skin. I little freaky, but I managed to stay sane. I had an uneasy night – the stiffness, the pressure and the uncertainty of whether I should move my arm or not kept me up most of the night. 

The Next morning

My Nephrologist’s assistant came in early morning as I was having my breakfast.  He saw that my arm was half flexed – and seemed really regid. He said no you need to move it constantly. That’s when it became clear.

  1. The pain was not of the stitches.
  2. The stiffness would only get worse if I didn’t move the hand.
  3. The stitches were secure enough and there’s no need to worry about them ripping.
  4. It is essential to exercise – the flex and stretch movements as well as the wrist pumping action. 

As I tried to stretch – my arm would ache – exactly at the point of the surgery and hence I asked the doctor again if it was normal. He then explained beautifully. 

The veins are superficially located, but arteries are located deeper. So in the surgery, they first made an incision of about an inch and a half on the outer skin, then they dug deeper, seperated your muscles a little, found the artery and linked a portion of it with a suitable nearby vein to create the AV Fistula. Since they went beneath the muscles and fiddled with all that’s inside, the muscles would be disturbed and stiff. By exercising – making the flex and stretch exercise you will get the muscle to perform their intended action and hence restore their original shape and condition. The wrist pumping action will increase blood flow into your arm, and there are many reasons why more blood is better than less – faster blood, more nutrients, more flow and fluidity and hence faster healing.

Hospital Tag

Exercising became easier and made more sense after knowing this. The arm slowly gets better, the veins in your arm slowly start popping and the jet of high pressure blood flowing in a pulsating motion just under the skin becomes an everyday thing that you’ll learn to live with. It’s not easy, but where’s the fun in easy?


AV Fistula – The Details

There’s good news and there’s bad news I would say.

Bad news – My kidneys are failing

Most people would be shocked an a little anxious for me. They would ask me questions on the different things in my blood like creatinine, urea and eGFR and things like that. But they would soon recover, and the recovery was partly because I had said there was good news too – which was just really a placebo.

Upon insistence, I would say the good news is that

I find myself in an unenviable position

Those who knew and loved me enough would crack up and the rest would pout a sad face.

My doctor who has been seeing me for more than 16 years now said that it would be safe to get an AV Fistula done as there was no telling when I might need dialysis and the AV Fistula needs anywhere between 8-12 weeks to mature and be usable for dialysis. Meaning you need to get the AV Fistula done well in advance of your first dialysis sitting.

What is Dialysis?

Dialysis is the process of purifying blood. Our kidneys perform this function and remove toxins and other waste products from the body. When the kidneys have nearly completely failed, the body has no way of regulating the chemical composition and water balance of the body. This will eventually lead to malfunction and failing of other organs like the heart, liver and brain any of which can lead to sudden or slow descend to death.

To prevent this, the medical sciences have invented a method to carry out this process of blood purification outside the human body using a machine unimaginatively called the dialysis machine. The patient is hooked up the machine, two needles are connected into a single vein which acts as both artery and a vein. The needles again, quite obviously are called the arterial needle and the venal needle. Blood is pumped out – using the patient’s own internal blood pressure and no external pump – from the body and made to flow through a long series of pipes lined with osmotic membranes, which is nothing but layers of skin or organic film will allow separation of toxins, chemicals and other waste from the blood. The process is repeated for about 3-4 hours until all of the blood in the body is purified. Depending on the damage of the kidneys and the requirement of the patient, dialysis can be prescribed anywhere between 4 times a month to 3 times a week.

All details listed above are for hemodialysis, there is also a method called peritoneal dialysis – which doesnt require a fistula or getting hooked on a huge machine for 4 hours. Look it up.

What is an AV Fistula?

An AV Fistula is basically an abnormal condition where an artery and a vein interlock and become one. That is, blood from the artery flows into the vain thereby making it swell up.

This abnormality is artificially created in case of patients who need dialysis by surgically connecting an artery to a suitable vein. The process is generally done under local anaesthesia at a few known access points like the wrist or elbows or thighs – choice of the access point for creation of the Fistula is made based on the built of the patient and availability of suitable veins.

Why AV Fistula?

There are 2 reasons,

As we’ve learnt a little while ago, needles – substantially thick needles – are inserted into the patient’s body. Now the arteries are thick and fat and can take the piercings, but veins are not always thick and repeated piercings can collapse the veins, secondly, blood flows in the veins in relatively low pressure and hence pumping gallons of blood back into the body for 4 hours may not be possible without proper pressure. The Fistula creates a pressure that is generally higher than usual venal pressure and makes the veins capable of handling blood flow possible.

Other options

Apart from an AV Fistula, doctors may also suggest creation of AV grafts, where in an inorganic connection – in form a tube – is created between the artery and the vein thus performing the same function.

Both the AV Fistula and AV graft need some time. Around 2-3 months to mature and get the veins ready for the reoccurring process of dialysis.

There is 3rd option using an intravenous catheter. This catheter doesn’t need a maturity time and is generally used in case of emergencies.

When it comes to other factors like longevity, usability and maintenance , the AV Fistula is called the best option as it is completely organic, is least prone to clotting and infections. Whatever you choose, you can live a long life on dialysis if you are ready to make some lifestyle changes and stay vigilant of your condition.

Ofcourse if you have a long life to live and have the means to afford it, you should read up on kidney transplant and give it a shot.


Also watch

Continue reading “AV Fistula – The Details”

Bow wow eww

Repost from a 2012 post on the Original Dr. Timepass

Three months after my sister was married, her old cupboard was finally mine. It smelt strongly of cosmetics and little did I know that the perfume of oriflame would eventually help me in understanding dogs. Yeah… it makes less sense, but let’s keep going. I had had the almirah for two or three months, and there wasn’t much I actually wanted to keep inside an almirah. My mom made use of this, she needed a place to keep her herbal tea stock; and since I didn’t have the almirah full by then, my mom stocked a full shelf with her herbal tea. Since then I would be greeted by the scent of tea and herbs as I opened the doors. I should say here, I really missed the scent of oriflame.  

Moving on, just a few weeks back my dad needed a place to store his gifts. Gifts as in wooden mementos. So quite easily he took another empty shelf and filled it with his mementoes. I know!! I really need to stuff things into that almirah! So now the cupboard smelt of wood varnish. I would wrinkle my nose and make a bad face whenever I opened the closet. Actually it was this repelling scent that made me think how important the sense of smell is, and how stimulating it can be. I started thinking about how dogs always sniffed around other dogs’ pee, or I had heard that male star tortoises travelled for miles to the scent of a female tortoise in heat. I started to think that maybe the sense of smell is wasted on us, and of course a lot of other crazy weird shit; but that’s when it hit me! I finally realized why I was being chased by dogs, or why Rani, the dog in our street was thought to be a bad dog or why the number of dog bites had increased in the metros. It was smell! 

I knew that dogs are rarely aggressive towards humans, but the number of Dog bite cases has had an increasing trend over the years.  I had been chased by dogs myself on a few occasions, I really didn’t care to think about it, but I did see a pattern, I saw that on the days I wore an Adidas, ‘sport’ deo(marketed by Calvinkare in India) I noticed dogs barking at me and on two occasions aggressively perused . A dog with a limp near my friend Pinky’s house, which is otherwise the most peaceful dog also seemed to want a piece of me. I though, the deo was bad luck and stopped using it. But It was the scent!  

I was chased again by Rani, this was right after I had had a bath; I had used my mom’s VS shampoo… I thought the shampoo smelled really good, and after I came out of the bath, my mom was seriously mad at me for using too much of her VS shampoo. That was probably worse than Rani’s chase, but the point is, it could be possible that Rani was repelled or felt threatened by the weird smell of my mom’s shampoo. Rani, was also known for barking at fast traveling cars; and she would really get mad at the two guys who had wicked looking Bullet bikes in our street. 

There were reports of dogs attacking infants. It really seemed threatening, and many organizations plus the government took to the streets to sterilize, move and even kill dogs. Maybe, a lamenting infant in the hands of a funny smelling woman with shopping bags full of more smelly things scared him. Just a thought.

In our fit to be metro, we are confusing and threatening these poor creatures. The sense of smell, sight and sound are all that these playful creatures base their life on, and all the different smells, sounds, sizes and shapes that we create or have these days are harming the creatures we share our ecosystem with.  If we can talk about being sensitive to nature, we can surely think why animals do what they do.

The next time you are chased or attacked by a dog, just smell yourself


This Mental Health Monday, lets just look at something simple. The simple act being sensitive. Ofcourse, no one really means to be mean, we’re just not mindful enough, not sensitive enough.

Now these words in the picture to the right are usually used as adjectives. They are urban slangs basically, and a part of our everyday urban vocab. But that’s not right, is it? how many times have you heard yourself say ‘Just because everyone does it, it doesn’t become right’ ?  Let’s stop this. Mental illnesses are no joke and everyone knows that.

Let’s not talk small of it. Let’s not say I don’t mean offense or talk small of those affected. Let us not say it’s just an expression or its just the way we talk and get away with it. It’s not easy changing the world and its even harder changing oneself. Let us accept that if we as a people want to create a society with better mental health then we need to make these changes to our lives, everyone’s lives.


Brotherhood of Motherhood

I always thought I might turn into a good parent as I love animals. Or let’s say Pets in general. Why do people love pets? And is there a difference between the way we love our pets and we love our children?

Children are innocent and so are Pets, they can’t think for themselves and need to be looked after. Until recently I thought this was closely corelated. My world was opened by the book I’m currently reading.

Apparently Infantilizing is a thing. The dictionary defines infantilizing as:

Treat (someone) as a child or in a way which denies their maturity in age or experience.

We as people tend to infantilize other people around us. Generally, our children, and in cases people who are heavily prone to doing this, we may do this to everyone around us; family, friends, colleagues or even strangers. Infantilizing not only stunts the growth of the people around us and eventually makes them prone to developing Dependent Personality Disorder and other Passive personality disorders, but it also means the native who indulges in infantilizing has a necessity to keep the people around infantilized.

Meaning, the native wants the people around him or her to be as helpless and depended as infants are. Loving pets is infantilizing. When it comes to human babies, we want our children to grow up, first learn to look after themselves then learn to lead their own lives and eventually start their own family. We don’t envision all this for our pets, do we? We do look for mates for breeding and we do tend to grow the lineage or pedigree of our pet, but one important thing is that we don’t know what the pet is thinking. Hence all our actions towards the pet is basically a reflection of how we feel.

People who have cats as pets would know this better as they resemble human children more in behavior. Dogs remain infants as they are always up for a game and always ready to spread the joy. Cats would sit on their furry rear and may even claw or purr at you if they are not in the mood. Some dogs could also turn unruly, and we generally set it off at this point.

Another interesting point I learnt was the only thing we expect of our pets is obedience. This we can’t expect in human relations. And expecting or maintaining high degree of obedience would only lead to infantilization and hence the end for growth. If a pet is bad, you could send it off or abandon it, but you can’t do that to real children can you? Well atleast not always. There are cases where parents have beaten their children to death, killed cranky babies and suffocated crying infants. This is not because the child was bad – it was because the native couldn’t control the baby.


1. Don’t think you’re ready to handle babies just because you like pets.

2. People who don’t like pets may make good parents after all.


Part 4 – Dawki and Jaintia

Picking the Slack

Our first day in Sohra wouldn’t end without some native food. It was spiced up curry with crispy pork.

After hunting for hotels and spoiling ourselves over choices, we finally nailed one down. We wanted something that gave either a 3 bedded room or 2 double bed rooms, whichever cheaper. Apparently such requests are not unusual.

After the spicy curry, steamed rice and crispy pork, we settled for the night. It was chilly and the 24 hour hot water service was a boon. After all of us had had a hot shower, we sat across the TV and tuned into the night’s football game. It was hardly 8:30 PM. But it was pitch dark, biting cold and dead silent outside.

Our driver cum guide had told us to wake up as early as possible, 5 AM was what he had said, we made it at 6. The first place we went to was a waterfall. It is to be enjoyed from distance, sadly as it was December – the dry season, we were barely able to notice the falls.

Next on the route was a park, a man made attraction with lot of benches and view points. Something from where we could get a vista view of the khasi hills. Note that we were still in Sohra on the Khasi hills.

The last tourist spot in the Khasi district was the Mawsmai caves. The caves were basically nature’s art consisting of stalagmites and stalactites – which is a structure created due to the gradual deposition of minerals from trickling water into valleys. These had created some really wild structures. Some looked like the a ministry of magic chambers, which some looked like the frills of silky cloth. It takes about 40 mins to an hour to explore the caves.

We had a cup of tea and bought some chips as we weren’t really hungry yet. Our driver did suggest that it was an hour and half to Dawki.

Dawki is actually a river that flows between India and Bangladesh, but the cluster of tourist places along it, which are technically the Jaintia hills are collectively called Dawki. In Dawki, we had planned to see 3 things

1. Live Root Bridge – in Dawki

2. Mawlynnong – Asia’s cleanest village

3. The river Dawki along Bangladesh border.

Root bridges are unique to this region. The most famous root bridge is the double decker root bridge in Sohra – which is an expedition in itself. It is advised to hire a khasi travel guide and requires a day for itself. Our rootbridge was in Dawki – Riwai village to be exact. The idea of build bridges out of roots of rubber trees is to befriend and live alongside nature. The native tribes believe building a steel or wooden or concrete bridge may look sane and modern, but it will fall in years due to the geography of the region. The root bridges though may not take weights of vehicles, will stand the test of time.

Our experience with the root bridge was inspiring, a stereotypical and momentary appreciation for nature loomed. And then we were back, littering and shopping and selfy-ing our trances away.

All the pop up shops were run by women. Fruit stalls, coconut water stalls, souvenir stores and every other store was run by women. They wore money satchels and something that looked like a traditional attire. I did ask a lady what it was called in their tongue, but its been too long.

Our next destination was the cleanest village in Asia, or so claimed. Mawlynnong. It has been much commercialised and currently looked like a version of Delhi haat with people living there full time.

The village was ofcourse clean, dustbins a plenty and pay and use toilet for the tourists. The drains were open but didn’t stink much. Every house – kacha houses – made of wood and cane had a pop up shop in front of their house. They sold basic souvenirs like toys, magnets, key chains and postcards. Some people had photo booths and some ran small eateries or restaurants from their homes. Again – women ran the show. Given the fact that the tribes of Meghalaya are matrilineal, it’s not so surprising.

Although it looked like a small village, dependent on agriculture and tourism with a suspected poverty, one thing that I saw in all homes – however big or small – was shoes, football shoes – studs as we call them. This land had provided so many stars to indian football, no marketing body or no federation was responsible, football is in their blood and in their life.

The food is reasonable, the place where we ate, the owner said

“people keep asking us we want local food, but we only eat rice and pork, not many people like that – so we need to go-to Shillong and learn a few things they sell at the city’s restaurants”

The last stop for the day was going to be Bangladesh border along the river Dawki. As we reached the river bank, we noticed there was huge pile up. A line of trucks seemed to be stopping our way. On enquiry we found that they had been stopped by border security. The trucks would be allowed entry into Bangladesh after 4 PM. Hence we had to walk the last couple of minutes to get down to the river.

The river reflected the green of the cliffs around it. But it was so clean that we could see the floor of the river. A flowing body of water with numerous boats and divers was crystal clear.

We asked around for a boat ride, and a boy no older than 15 asked us to get onto his boat. As we floated towards Bangladesh we made small talk with the boy, we found he was actually 18 years old and supported NorthEast United FC and Pune City FC. He saw our Bengaluru FC jerseys and bantered with us a little. The clean water showed us how deep the floor was and hence we didn’t banter back with our boatman.

The sun had just begun setting as we headed back towards India. We gave a little more than the agreed 700 said our goodbyes.

The trucks had gone and our driver was waiting for us with the car just as we climbed the cliffs. No walking on the way back. It took us about 2-2 and a half hours to get back to Shillong. We reached there by 7 but as we had seen earlier, it was dark, but not as cold as the previous night in Sohra and definitely not silent.

Also read: Part 3: Khasi hills of Meghalaya